The Janoueix family is one of Bordeaux's venerable and beloved clans. Proprietors of more than a dozen small châteaux on the Right Bank, they are known for their transparent and understated wines and for a firm commitment to sustainability in a region where organic viticulture is still the exception rather than the rule. Among their various holdings is an unsung jewel of Pomerol called Château La Croix Toulifaut. Purchased by Jean-François Janoueix in 1972, this is a tiny estate of 1.9 hectares that produces roughly 9 barrels a year.
The château sits just at the southern edge of the appellation, lodged between Château Beauregard (Pomerol) and the legendary Figeac, a Saint-Émilion Premier Grand Cru Classé. The soils are a classic combination of sand and hard brown clay, and the wines produced are equally classic. In the ripe 2018 vintage, this is a wonderful wine. The core of black fruit is swaddled by notes of cocoa nib, black truffle, and fresh tobacco. There is considerable power here, with real grip, though the tannins are never too rustic or chewy. This is a lovely wine that can be enjoyed tonight or in 15 years.
